Pinagbuhatan Fiesta -- San Sebastián

Every year on January 20, the typically monotonous streets of Barangay Pinagbuhatan in the City of Pasig transform themselves into a vibrant place of merrymaking and festivities. The focal point of the Mardi Gras-like atmosphere in the barangay is always the parish church, as January 20 marks the feast day of its revered patron saint—San Sebastian.

"Viva San Sebastian!"

At the break of dawn on the said day, brass bands parade the streets, as if calling the people to start the festivities—the traditional early morning rounds called "djana" (or diana to some bands). Now and then, that heroic sound of martial music would be broken by the distant sounds of exploding fireworks.

The formal celebration starts with the morning mass officiated by the parish priest. In truth, the building excitement would not be found inside the church where mass is being held but instead outside. In the church grounds, the brewing festivities heat up. People gather outside, young and old alike, anticipating the start of the street festivities.

When the priest concludes the mass, shouts of "Viva San Sebastian!" fill the air, signaling the start of that age-old tradition of Pinagbuhatan—the "San Sebastian Pagoda."

Pagoda circa the 1960s by Domingo Bombio 

The pagoda used to be a fluvial parade, much like other pagodas in the Philippines. The river, after all, was the source of livelihood and the lifeblood of the barrio for centuries. It also served as a way of expressing gratitude and seeking blessings. However, when the Pasig River became polluted, and the means of livelihood for the people shifted from the river to other sources, the pagoda was relocated to the streets.

Nevertheless, remnants of its fluvial origin are still discernible through the tradition of "basaan" or water games among the people participating in or observing the pagoda.

"Basaan sa Pagoda ni San Sebastian 2012"  by Domingo Bombio

The street pagoda "Pinagbuhatan Fiesta" by Domingo Bombio

Each district or "purok" of the barangay assigns groups of folk dancers in colorful native costumes to represent their area, joyfully dancing to the beat of a fandango or a valse provided by their respective hired brass bands. This, along with several penitents or "namamanata" dressed in native costumes, adds to the vibrant aspects of the fiesta.

Each district also parades and dances around its own image of San Sebastián on the pagoda. However, the main attraction, as always, is the primary image of the said "Santo," housed in the church. This is where people and penitents usually gather. There is a belief among the folks of the barrio that this image is miraculous.

There is also an oral tradition, a story passed down from generation to generation, suggesting that San Sebastián came or was brought by the Spaniards to this community via rivers and waterways that traverse the area.

16th century Naturales (Tagalog) from the Boxer Codex

Ancient Town Center?

One narrative mentions pre-Hispanic Pasig as part of a 15th-century kingdom stretching from the Pasig River to the waterway now called "Bitukang Manok" (the present-day creek). It was founded and ruled by Princess Dayang Kalangitan with her consort Rajah Gat Lontok. When the Spaniards entered the mouth of Manila Bay on May 8, 1570, arriving in Tondo, they found the heir of Dayang Kalangitan, Rajah Sulaiman II (Rajah Matanda), and his relatives ruling parts of Manila and Tondo.

Historical records state that towards the end of 1570, the Spaniards, under the leadership of Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, began their systematic conquest of Luzon, including Manila. By mid-1571, they were advancing toward the Laguna de Bay area.

From a base in Cainta, the men of Legazpi surveyed Laguna Bay and found a tributary (Cainta/Antipolo river) leading to other waterways. In 1572, the Spaniards, led by Augustinian Father Alonso de Alvarado and Juan de la Isla (the first encomendero of Pasig), founded the settlement and church in Pasig.

Tomb of Legaspi at San Agustin Church, Intramuros, Manila

 Legaspi was born in Zumarraga Gipuzkoa in the Basque region of Spain,  with a capital that was also named after San Sebastian.  Every January 20,  they have this wonderful tradition called Tamborrada, a 24-hour procession of drummers honoring the day.

In the mid-1990s, eminent Pasig historian Dr. Luciano PR Santiago hinted at the possibility that the new settlement or mission founded by the Spaniards could actually be Pinagbuhatan. He suggested that the men of Legazpi reached the area on the feast day of San Sebastian, January 20, thereby establishing the foundation of the church and the new mission under the name and protection of the said saint. However, the Spaniards later concluded that it was not an ideal central location. Concerns were also raised when it was learned that the area of Pinagbuhatan suffered from periodic inundation.

Finally, in 1573, almost a year after its supposed founding, the mission was transferred to the area called Malinao. Pinagbuhatan was relegated to being just another "visita" of Pasig. Dr. Santiago then added that people would often refer to the place as "pinagbuhatan ng simbahan," hence the origin of Pinagbuhatan's name. However, he also admitted that all of these narratives are merely suggestive on his part and should not be taken as historical facts until documents would back his claim.

At present, no historical records or archival documents found in Spain or the Philippines support the claim that Pinagbuhatan was the actual site of the first mission or the first church in Pasig. Yet despite this, nothing would ever stop the people of Pinagbuhatan from showing their deeply rooted devotion with fervor to their patron saint. Another common belief in Pinagbuhatan follows that the feast of San Sebastian has been a yearly celebration for ages now and that it is one of the oldest and one of the most colorful Catholic traditions in Pasig.

Painting by Sodoma depicting San Sebastián c. 1525

~ Visit my blog about the life and times of San Sebastian:

 San Sebastian-Sundalo at Martir ng Kristiyanismo

                              ~ Also for further readings please visit:

                                    Commentaries on the History of the Founding Of Pasig