Pasig's Duck Culinary Culture

My lecture presentation at UP Diliman, Palma Hall for The 15th Conference of the Société Internationale d´Ethnologie et de Folklore (SIEF) Ritual Year Working Group (RYWG): Food, Feasts, Festivities, & Folklore. December 13, 2024

Pasig City, particularly its riverside communities extending toward Laguna de Bay, boasts a unique culinary culture rooted in its rich history of duck raising. Among these communities, the barangays of Pinagbuhatan and Kalawaan stand out for their vibrant celebrations, especially during their annual barrio fiestas, honoring thier respective patron saints. In Pinagbuhatan, for instance, calderetang itik (duck stew) takes center stage as the highlight of celebration in many households.

Each family and community adds its own unique touch to this dish. Some marinate the duck in beer or lemon-based soft drinks, imparting a subtle tang and depth of flavor. Others employ meticulous methods for cleaning and preparing the bird, ensuring its quality, aroma, and hygiene.
Duck eggs are another essential element of the culinary heritage in these riverside communities. They enrich indulgent desserts like leche flan and sorbetes, where the creamy yolks combined with carabao milk create a luxurious texture and flavor. Even spoiled duck eggs are not wasted; they are transformed into local delicacies such as abnoy and penoy, which remain popular street food sold on the bustling streets of Pasig.
Many may be surprised to learn that Pasig once had a flourishing duck industry. Puyahan (duck enclosures) lined the riverside, housing thousands of ducks and supporting a thriving egg trade. Local lore even suggests that Pasig produced duck eggs for Pateros, the renowned balut capital. With its limited river frontage, Pateros depended on Pasig's duck farms to meet the high demand during the industry’s peak. This partnership gave rise to the saying: "Pateros does the balut, Pasig also supplies the egg."
This culinary tradition not only reflects Pasig’s agrarian past but also highlights the symbiotic relationship between its farmlands and waterways. The enduring legacy of these practices offers a glimpse into a way of life centered on the duck-raising culture—or the "Itikan" of Pasig of the past.


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Please also read my article: "The Forgotten Duck Industry of Pasig"
Click here: https://fyumul.blogspot.com/2021/06

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