The Watchman of Old Manila



                       A watchman of Madrid. 1832. Drawing by Juan Carrafa (BNE). I haven't seen yet                                 illustrations or photos of  "Sereno" of Manila. It heightens more curiosities.                







 

In the acclaimed short story "May Day Eve" by Nick Joaquin, the narrative opens and closes with a watchman's proclamation: "Guardia sereno-o-o! A las doce han dado-o-o!" (This translates to "Night watch! Its twelve midnight!")
Joaquin vividly recreates a centuries-old tradition from Spanish Manila, one with roots in medieval Spain: the sereno, a night watchman.
This watchman system was a common feature in European medieval towns. Communities within walled cities employed them to patrol the streets and announce the passing hours.
Interestingly, the hourly call also served as a rudimentary weather report for medieval farmers. In case of disruptive weather, the sereno's announcement would warn them to take measures to protect their crops and livestock.
Traces of this practice persist in certain parts of Spain, where the sereno's calls might include phrases like "Las doce han dado y sereno" (It's 12 midnight and tranquil), "Las trece han dado y aleviendo" (It's 1 PM and stormy), or "Las quince han dado y nublado" (It's 3 PM and cloudy).
In the Philippines, over time, the word "sereno" has acquired a distinct meaning. In rural areas, it refers to dusk or the time of the "oracion" (angelus prayer). It's also considered the time when people, especially children, should be indoors.
Elders often warn youngsters with phrases like "Huwag ng lumabas at baka maserenohan kayo!" (Don't go out, or you might get caught by the 'sereno') or "Huwag na kayong lalabas sereno na" (Don't go out anymore, it's sereno already).
This association with dusk has imbued "sereno" with a quasi-religious element, suggesting a time when malevolent spirits or illness might be more prevalent.
There must have been something in the "night" according to our pre-Hispanic folklore that the early friars exploited. Plus the element of this night watch design to pacify the natives. Communities were then put into a "pueblo" or a barrio under the care of a priest. "Bajo la campana". All of this mixed into a cocktail to form a Filipino catholic mentality and beliefs.

These contrasting interpretations of "sereno" highlight the fascinating ways cultural practices evolve and acquire new meanings over time.


                                      A watchman who just received his pay. 13th Century. Italy




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