In Search of the "Venice Spice Trade"



The recent flooding in Venice brought to mind a remark from an Italian academic friend of mine years ago while we were exploring the city: "Venezia has long been dead. All you see now are just remnants of her glorious past. It's like gazing at the well-preserved body of a beautiful lady. Just be cautious not to fall in love with her!"

Nevertheless, many do fall under the enchantment of Venezia. For years, I've been intrigued by this "well-preserved body," once known as the Mistress of the Adriatic. During its zenith as a city-state, from the late Middle Ages through the Renaissance, Venice served as a hub for both exotic and opulent trade originating from the East. With a watchful eye on the Ottoman Turks, a threat that loomed like the sword of Damocles, Venice actually thrived in those years of "mutual tolerance." The city's interactions and trade with the East hinged on a delicate balance, with her influential neighbor's magnanimity ensuring stability while Venice refrained from provocation.

In my exploration of Venice, I embarked on a quest to locate the famed spice quarter, once the epicenter of a thriving continental spice trade. However, I discovered only an aging stone sign bearing the name "Ruga dei Spezieri" (Spice Street). The area now hosts quaint specialty shops selling olive oils and such, with no remnants of the legendary grand spice storehouses.

As for the cuisine, I pondered whether a culinary journey might unveil echoes of Venice's spicy legacy. The renowned "haute cuisine," the Cucina Veneziana, was a medley of the commonplace and skillfully reimagined classics. It's said that after Venice's grip on the European spice trade waned, the spices and their culinary influence became confined to the Turkish quarter (Fondaco dei Turchi) and the Jewish Ghetto. Subsequently, control of this trade shifted into the hands of the Iberians. I could well comprehend how, during that era, Vasco da Gama earned the dubious distinction of being Venice's public enemy number one.

Did the Venetians ever unveil the true source of these exotic spices? Indeed, they did. Arab and Turkish traders had divulged the origins long before, prompting even Marco Polo to traverse the Silk Road, journeying alongside spice-laden caravans to the Far East. Genoa, envious of Venice's grandeur, incited its citizens to excel as seafarers and venture forth on similar routes.

When discussions revolve around the history of spices, it's often the Portuguese, Spaniards, and even the Dutch who take the forefront. However, it was the Venetians who played a significant role in nurturing the enduring European fascination with spices.

Makati City. 19 Nov. 2019

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